This was, in my opinion, the best presentation today. Although Silvana spoke in French, the translation (on headphones) was very good, and she began by explaining all about the Brazilian economy and market forces, and then about their company, O Boticario. O Boticario began as one little chemist’s shop, and they began making their own products, and they opened more shops by franchising, until they had opened many throughout Brazil, and then they turned their attention to the overseas markets, opening stores first in Portugal, and then other countries, and being very successful. Because of O Boticario, Brazil is a new force to be reckoned with in the perfumery industry. The people of Brazil prefer their fragrances to be very fresh, as the climate is so hot. Because they grow a lot of exotic tropical fruits, they prefer fragrances without fruity notes. Lavender is a popular note in products for babies and children, and women also like lavender. Silvana showed us some videos of TV advertising for their different product ranges, children, teenagers, women and men. Their very first fragrance, Aqua Fresca is still very popular. Their latest fragrance for women does, in fact, have a fruity note, and is proving to be quite successful.
THE CURRENT CHALLENGE WE ARE FACING IN OUR INDUSTRY
Richard Goldstein, Chairman and CEO, IFF
Richard described the philosophy and future aims of IFF.
Aside from the lectures, our afternoons were spent in the Exhibition, where over sixty of our raw materials suppliers were displaying new naturals and aroma chemicals, in some very innovative settings. Quest were displaying two new musks, and their fruity nitrile, frutonile. Givaudan were exhibiting their latest sandalwood innovation – even stronger than ebanol. At Firmenich’ stand, each material they were showing related to a colour. There was an intriguing stand by a company called Aerome. They are into air fragrancing, but they had several video screens, each with a small device underneath which delivered a measured amount of a fragrance into the air on cue with several advertisements showing on the screen. There was a Coca-cola advert, where the smell of the drink was only released at the point when the liquid was pouring into the glass.
There were several stands with books and magazines on perfumery, and Guy Begin had his own stand with books of his paintings. Robertet had a very tranquil, Feng Shui inspired room. Aromas of olibanol, basmati rice, green tea and bamboo were displayed to their best advantage in the beautifully designed setting. Payan & Bertrand showed a sumptuous array of naturals, and Kao were displaying some of their specialities, pollenal, ambercore, poirenate and some extractions of labdanum, labdacore, more cistus like, and labdacuir, more leathery, animalic. Stort Chemicals showed us some water white citrus oils, which looked nothing like you would expect from their delicious zesty smells.
There was a stand by Cedarome of Canada, exhibiting a variety of coniferous tree extracts – some of these were really unusual and interesting, and very aromatic. Charabot chose a “Cannes Film Festival” Theme for their stand where we looked at some delicious new naturals including rose floraline and saffron. Nearby was Calchauvet, with a selection of naturals, some never seen before, such as pandanus. This is an aromatic grass, which is always planted next to basmati rice, and in fact, this is how the rice has such an aromatic flavour. How innovative, to think of extracting the grass – as these rice notes are so popular at the moment! There was also prune absolute – again this was very interesting – because there are so few natural fruity notes for use in perfumery.
On the I.F.F. stand there were a number of areas making use of the Aerome technology – the first set were demonstrating a choice of floral aromas, and while the smell came out of the air stream, there were headphones to wear with some inspirational music and a video of the flower you were smelling was shown. The second set was demonstrating individual I.F.F. materials, again with visual and audio stimuli.On the Wednesday evening, a select group joined Charabot on their boat, for a cruise around the bay and the islands near Cannes. A Thirties style Swing four piece band serenaded us with jazzy music as we sailed.