Then a revolution came… Aramis, and the men’s market was changed forever. Here was a higher concentration, a strong, sophisticated fragrance with a very unusual top note.
Men have always been fond of green notes, as well. Vent Vert, that I mentioned earlier, has always been widely used by men. This creation led to another very unusual fragrance for men, Grey Flannel, dominated by very strong green leafy violet notes. Then came Devin where the green effect of a pine forest was produced.
I also mentioned earlier that men feel good wearing sweeter fragrances. Brut and all his children are examples of the classic floral fougeres that are very long-lasting with a pleasing sweet musky note. Pierre Cardin is also sweet in the Jicky tradition. Lagerfeld is sweet, but it’s also fruity, which is an interesting departure for men. Pour un Homme – lavenders are not popular any more in the United States, but what an elegant fragrance! Copenhagen is fresh and sweet.
Let’s now move to another direction… Paco. It’s a very successful creation that made its mark with a new clean top note made of fresh-smelling ingredients like Dimetol.
Woody Notes are manish by nature, being the opposite of florals and men feel comfortable wearing them. Vetivert by Guerlain, Arden for men with its rich Sandalwood note, Polo, a unique creation because of its remarkable Patchouli theme, and Z-14 by Halston where woods were combined in a new way with spices.
Musk Fragrances have been adopted by men and women. Everyone likes this soft note that doesn’t change character and is so long-lasting.
I do not think I can end this talk on creativity without mentioning functional products such as soaps, shampoos, room sprays and the others where a quiet revolution has taken place.
Smelling Camay or the Luxs around the world we can recognize very sophisticated odours directly influenced by the world of fine fragrances. The same changes can also be smelled in shampoos, room sprays and many other functional products. Ten years ago the goal was only cleanliness whereas today, the public wants to use more sophisticated scents in all their forms.
In my highlights of the men’s market, in most cases I could only find fragrances of good quality; really few show great creativity. And yet, some of those fragrances are real commercial successes, so why should we be creative? Why should we be revolutionary when being evolutionary, and copying successful trends, is easier and safer? I really think that we cannot stand still. We must always bring new excitement to the market place if we wish to attract more consumers to buy our fragrances. If we do not rise to this challenge, and if we do not challenge ourselves every day, we will stagnate; our industry will suffer and its growth will slow down.
The challenge is not only for ourselves – perfumers – but also for the chemists who are trying to create new ingredients. If we look at our modern world and look, for example, at the progress which the computer industry has achieved, what have we done? What have the chemists done for us? Not very much lately. But we can be sure that new discoveries will be made again and new methods will open a new era for chemistry. Then chemists working together with the perfumers will find new chemical bodies which will help you create the great perfumes of tomorrow.
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