Sacha Borodinsky returned for what is becoming a regular and very popular slot in our programme.
Quest Paris have thought of some new classification names this year:
 

New Generation	Eau
Fresh	Fruits
Crisp	Floral
Opulent	Feminity
Warm	Sensuality
Gustative	Signature

New Generation Eau
Described as: Freshness, sparkle, citrus notes other than the traditional - we are seeing lime, grapefruit, yuzu. More perfumistic towards the end notes. The Eaux of today are more sophisticated and sensual.

Examples:
Lagerfeld Femme
Eau, Woody, Floral
Green, mandarin, yuzu, rhubarb, elemi, pink peppercorn, transparent floral, "transparent" woody, musk;

Eau de Cartier
Eau, Woody
Not a classic "Eau Fraiche". Lots of sparkle and citrus in the top, woody, amber base, peppery, spicy
This is not marketed at either gender - they are just saying, "here is a fragrance, anyone who wants to can wear it."

Cologne by Thierry Mugler
Eau, Musky
This too is not aimed at either gender. Thierry Mugler loves the smell of "clean", and his inspiration was a bar of soap he found in a hotel in Morocco.
A reinterpretation of the classic Eau de Cologne. Bergamot, petitgrain, lavender, amber, woody, lots of musk. Contains a secret ingredient, "S", reported to make it longer lasting.

Iced Green Tea by Elizabeth Arden
Eau, Floral, Green Leaves
Sister fragrance to the successful "Green Tea". Fresher, minty, mentholic top note with grapefruit.
Another variant now available is "Spiced Green Tea".

Fresh Fruits
Described as: fresher, green fruits (i.e. not sweet), more natural style of fruit, not confectionery style.

Examples:
Ralph by Ralph Lauren, (2000)
Floral, fruity, green, apple/cucumber;

Fruity fragrances test very well in panels. Very American (Pleasures, etc), but in blind tests, they also do well in France.

Tropical Punch by Escada
Sparkling, Green, Fruity
Grapefruit, fresh cut grass, tropical fruit. Overripe fruity, slightly butyric, even.

So Pink by Gap
Eau, Floral, Fruity
Pink grapefruit, sparkling, fruity, floral, juicy orange and cassis;

Emotion by Laura Biagiotti
Floral, Fruity, Tropical
Fruity, coconut, powdery background, woody, methyl ionone, sandalwood;
Targeted at the younger audience;

Crisp Floral
Described as: green leaf notes are used to give extra crispness. Softened with transparent and sensual base notes.

Examples:
Rush 2 by Gucci
Floral, Green, Fruity
Similar packaging to Rush but transparent box. Targeted at the younger audience.
Much lighter, green, watery fruits, rose, blackcurrant, peony, freesia;

Glamourous by Ralph Lauren
Floral, Green, Fruity
Notes of watermelon, pear, rose, muguet, jasmine, cedarwood;

Opulent Feminity
Described as: More perfumistic, rich and extravagant, but bright rather than heavy;

Flower by Kenzo
Floral, White, Sweet
This is very successful - its launch has doubled the turnover of Kenzo. Very much talked about - its success is phenomenal.
Rich, white floral, comfortable, musky, powdery, vanilla, ylang, jasmine, violet, guaiacwood, heliotropin, coumarin, opoponax; (Interesting to see actual names of aroma chemicals being used in press descriptions.)

Also in this category:
Marc Jacobs Perfume
Floral, White, Fruity

Madness by Chopard
Chypre, Floral, Fruity
The actress Selma Hyek is featured in the advert;

Fragile EDT by Jean Paul Gaultier
It is reported that Fragile is not selling all that well - they have had to launch the EDT to try and revive the interest.
Lighter, more transparent, still with the tuberose note, but not cloying;

Warm Sensuality
Described as: a new type of comfort - enveloping and warm but not cloying.

Emporio White for Her
Sparkling top note, warm, comfortable, musky, woody;

Nu by YSL
Warm, sensual, woody, ambery. Distinctive, spicy with cardamom, cinnamon, pepper, vetiver, ciste, labdanum, incense;

Celine Pour Femme
Oriental, Floral, Fruity
Floral, oriental with distinctive fruity top note - lychee, rose, geranium, sandalwood, moss.

The same advert is used for masculine and feminine variants. It is mostly the body of a woman, with just a man's finger at the top of the page!
"Magic" by Celine has been withdrawn from the market.

Gustative Signature
Described as: Notes of pastry, sweet, edible, having a strong memory association.

XS Extreme Girl by Paco Rabanne
A younger sister to the XS brand. This is a Limited Edition.

Krizia
The bottle is an interesting "round pyramid". When the lid is removed, the whole bottle lights up! It is not powered by a battery, but uses similar technology to the luminous toys often found at fairs for children. It is supposed to last for 1250 "offs and ons".
Notes of star anise, plum, gingerbread, sensual oriental, tabac;

Also in this category:
Coco Mademoiselle
Hugo Deep Red

Castelbajac
Oriental, Fruity, Sweet
Heliotropin, bitter almond, white glue(!), ginger, aniseed, hawthorn, coumarin;
 

Masculine Fragrances
 

Clean and Transparent

Bright Spices

Deep Woody

Creamy Sensation

Clean and Transparent
Described as: fragrances with a transparency, fluidity, purity - a development of "New Freshness", watery elements, musks, low tensity woods and amber.

Oxygene by Lanvin
Woody, Marine, Aromatic
Watery, marine, masculine, woody, fresh, aromatic top note, dry, ambery base. Notes of armoise, wet leaves, melon, cardamom, oakmoss. A more daring fragrance than its female counterpart could have been. This has become the No.1 best-selling Men's fragrance in the world this year.

Miracle Homme by Lancome
Fougere, Green
This is doing very well internationally, but not very well in France.
A contemporary fougere, green, aromatic, textured warm base of precious woods, green leaves, red pepper;

Higher by Dior
New Freshness, Aromatic, Woody
Light and airy, dihydromyrcenol, pear, cognac brandy;

T for Him by Tommy Hilfigur
Eau, Musky, Aldehyde
A fresh, "wet t-shirt" accord. Smells of coriander leaves and watercress - green, fatty, adoxal;
Dry, woody base.

Bright Spices
Described as: energetic yet sensual, notes of ginger, peppercorns;

Aqua Man by Rochas
Not marine, despite its name - very woody and spicy;

Zanzibar by Van Cleef (YSL/Gucci)
Woody, Spicy, Citrus
An elegant harmony of spices, citrus, woody, ambery;

Bulgari Blu
Woody, Spicy

Deep Woody
Described as: having a deep and enveloping warmth;

Celine Pour Homme
Woody, ambery, citrus, aromatic;

Michael for Men
Chypre, Spicy, Leather
Sensual, honey/suede accord, with damascone, coriander, patchouli, tobacco, birch;

Creamy Sensation

Emporio White for Him
Musk, Woody, Aromatic

Ultraviolet for Men by Paco Rabanne
Oriental, Citrus
An elegant oriental, with a "crystalline" freshness, enveloped with modern woods - lime, lemon, verbena, grapefruit, jasmine, vetiver, cedarwood;

Sacha concluded yet another whirlwind tour of a year's fragrances, by saying that the number of launches is still (!) increasing.