BSP Meeting: 13 November 2003 at Cheshunt Marriott
Hotel
FRAGRANCE THEMES 2003
Sacha Borodinsky, Quest International
This has become a regular fixture for the
BSP. As always, Sacha presented a very interesting and comprehensive review
of the fragrances launched in 2003 in terms olfactive themes, themes communicated
through fragrance advertising and promotion and the new ideas that had
emerged during the year.
Growth has continued, with the numbers
of fragrance launches increasing year by year. According to Michael Edwards,
304
new fragrances were launched in the combined European and North American
markets in 2003, compared with 281 in 2002.
FRAGRANCES FOR WOMEN
THE NEW GENERATION EAUX
CLEAN AND SEXY FRAGRANCES
RADIANT FLORALS
SOFT AND INTIMATE FRAGRANCES
SIGNATURE FLORALS
RICH AND SEDUCTIVE FRAGRANCES
FRESH GUSTATIVES
The New Generation Eaux
Representing a continuing evolution of the
"Eau" family by the communication of new types of refreshment.
e.g.
Jardin Méditerranée,
Hermès - a green, floral eau with warm, woody
notes including a citrus fig leaves accord representing a successful interpretation
of the difficult fig note.
Eau de Gingembre, Roger & Gallet
Clean and Sexy fragrances
Communication freshly-showered cleanness and
the sensuality of sun-warmed skin. Typified by Glow, launched by
J.Lo
in 2002, a fragrance that was liked very much after prolonged use, although
less liked on initial trial. Glow entered the top 10 best sellers
in the USA in its year of launch.
Research by the Lancaster Group showed
that the description "clean" is a key fragrance attribute for women’s fragrances
in the USA.
e.g.
Eau Parfumée au Thé Blanc,
Bulgari - floral, musky eau
Pure, Jil Sander -
floral, musk skin scent (ambrette seed)
Breathless, Victoria’s Secrets
- musk, floral, citrus
Radiant Florals
Evolving from the fruity-floral category with
light, fresh, green, fruity, natural notes.
e.g.
Noa Fleur, Cacharel - floral,
rosy, musky
Frolic Floral Fantasy, Origins
- fresh lily-honeysuckle-iris composition
Dolly Girl, Anna Sui - floral,
fruity, sweet, powdery
Jeans Glamour, Versace
Still, Jennifer Lopez - floral,
fruity with notes of sake, Earl Grey tea, pepper and dry amber together
with the floral freshness of honeysuckle and freesia
Blue, Ralph Lauren - white
flowers with musk notes
Stella, Stella McCartney - rose-amber
accord
Soft and Intimate fragrances
Evolving from the sheer orientals, communicating
new sensuality.
e.g.
Lacoste pour Femme - floral,
woody, sweet, powdery
Very Irresistible, Givenchy -
floral, sweet, powdery, rose
Boss Intense
Emporio Night for Her, Armani -
oriental,
sheer musk
Attraction, Lancôme - Chypre,
fruity, green
Amor Amor, Cacharel - oriental
floral with milky lactonic notes
Signature Florals
e.g.
Tender Touch, Burberry
Gardenia, Elizabeth Taylor
Beyond Paradise, Estée Lauder
-
white
floral bouquet with lush, green freshness
Rich and Seductive fragrances
Opulent signature fragrances
e.g.
Omnia, Bulgari - classic
woody oriental
Spark, Liz Claiborne
L’Instant, Guerlain
For Her, Narciso Rodriguez - Chypre,
floral, musk
Fresh Gustatives
Evolving from the "gourmand" group with fresher
notes. "Sweet temptations"
e.g.
Kors, Michael Kors - musky,
fruity floral
Sicily, Dolce & Gabana
Clinique Simply - a
soft amber-oriental with notes of warm soya milk and toasted soya beans:
a new clean, baby skin concept
Burberry Brit - fresh,
spicy oriental
FRAGRANCES FOR MEN
CITRUS FRUITY FRESHNESS
NEW FLUIDITY
CLASSIC FOUGÈRES
NEW "SEXY FOR HIM"
NEW GUSTATIVES FOR MEN
Citrus Fruity Freshness
Development of the fougère theme.
e.g.
Polo Ralph Lauren Blue
Echo, Davidoff
Higher Energy, Dior
New Fluidity
Evolving from the theme of Acqua di Gio for
men.
e.g.
Time, Krizia
Subtil for Men
Kenneth Cole
Classic Fougères
e.g.
Miracle Homme L’Aquatonic, Lancôme
Visit, Azzaro - woody,
ambery, aromatic
Ennemi, Nickel - woody,
aromatic, musk with a men’s skin headspace reconstitution
Vetyver, Lanvin (relaunch)
Purple Label, Ralph Lauren
Rive Gauche pour Homme, YSL - Chypre
Fougère
New "Sexy for Him"
e.g.
Comme des Garcons 3 - woody
aromatic
Essencia di Zegna, YSL
Versace Man
Emporio Night for Him, Armani
Gucci pour Homme - oriental,
spicy, woody
Lui, Rochas - oriental,
woody, citrus
New Gustatives for Men
Evolving from Boss Hugo Boss, Boss in Motion
and
Lacoste pour Homme.
e.g.
Spark for Men, Liz Claiborne -
accords
of Cayenne pepper, rum, cognac, honey, fig
Air, Kenzo
John Ayres
9 February 2004
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