FINE FRAGRANCE TRENDS:
SACHA BORODINSKY TALK

EMERGING THEMES

FEMININE PERFUMERY

NEW GENERATION EAU:

Moving into an area of more warmth, more perfumistic accords.

Eau de Cartier 2001: Eau woody floral
Eau de Cartier 2002: Concentré: Eau, floral, more intense version.

Eau Torride: The name does not really suit the fragrance. Aromatonic like: mandarin, bergamot, lemon, bamboo, lychee, jasmin, sandalwood, subtle spiciness.
 

These have evolved from women wearing men's fragrances, because they perceived them as being fresh, and clean, light and hygienic. Now some of these types are being marketed directly at women.

Cologne-Thierry Mugler 2001
Started off this trend, although this one was not marketed at a particular gender. They simply said:
"Here is a fragrance, anyone who wants to can wear it".

T.Girl - Tommy Hilfiger: Floral, aldehydic green. Very clean drydown, hedione, rose, muguet.

Glow by J.Lo.: floral, musky, fresh, clean, sexy, the scent of freshly washed skin, petitgrain, rose, muguet, neroli, orange flower, hints of sandalwood and vanilla.
Quest fragrance: it is doing very well.
In a survey, vanilla and musk were both found to be considered "clean" smells.
 
 

FRESH FLORALS:


Essencia Femme-Lowe: Floral, fresh, woody.
Top notes: fresh, light lemon, bergamot, grapefruit, with spicy zing of ginger.
Heart: Floral,violet leaves, rose, lotus flower and lily of the valley.
Base: Bourbon vanilla and musk.

Arden Beauty - Elizabeth Arden: Floral white bouquet.Sparkling floral, sensual.
Top notes of Rice flower, Bergamot.
Heart of lotus flower,
gingerlily, rubrum lily, golden sunset orchard.
Base: sandalwood, white amber, musk.

Forever Elizabeth - Elizabeth Arden: Floral, white bouquet.

Pleasures Intense - Estée Lauder: Floral, green.
An intense version of Pleasures. Estée Lauder just had to "flanker" this one, as it has been so successful for them. Less musky, amber, more green, flowery, intense. Warmer, more intimate tones. Velvety voluptuous, intensely floral with the intense freshness of a just picked flower (very true).
Top notes: Green Lily, Peony, cassis, ylang, jasmine.
Heart: Moroccan Rose, night blossoming Jasmine, tiare, pink tiger lily.
Base: maple, benzoin crystal, vanilla (natural derivatives)
 
 

ORIENTALS:

THE ORIENTALS HAVE BEEN SPLIT IN TWO DIRECTIONS.
SOFT & INTIMATE:
These have evolved from Flower by Kenzo: warm & powdery.

So You - Giorgio(P&G): Oriental floral: plum, rose otto, violet. Fruity, floral amber, vanilla.

Gloria - Cacharel: Oriental powdery. (Not doing very well here or in France. Message too confusing as there are several Gloria fragrances...)

Sensi - Giorgio Armani: Oriental floral, soft, tender, cocooning, similar to "Flower".
Carnation, Jasmine, Heliotropin, Violet, Lily, clove, Vanilla. Very spicy.
Top notes: Kaffir Lime and acacia, Heart notes: Jasmine & Orgeat,
Base: Rosewood & Benzoin.
A bit like Oscar - lighter.

Roberto Cavalli: Floral, floral musky.
 
 

WHITE FLOWERS:

Tuberose, gardenia, jasmine, modernised by fruity and green notes.
Move to more opulence, depth, femininity.

Mark Jacobs: Floral, white, fruity.

Kate Spade: floral white. Honeysuckle and muguet flowers, gardenia and jasmine.
Heart: tuberose absolute & natureprint, neroli.
Captures the past memories and summer days.

Kenneth Cole NY Woman: floral fruity

Bora Bora Women - Liz Claiborne: Tuberose, coconut, peach, ylang, jasmin, frangipanni, heliotropin, almond, vanilla.
Big sales predicted for Bora Bora
 
 

RICH & SEDUCTIVE:

Deep, rich and sensual, getting back to depth and sensuality, resins, spices, lot of activity in this sector.

Costume National - Distributed by Kanebo: Oriental, Ambery.
Lime, Lavender, aromoise, sage, prune, cinnamon, pimento, suede. Is doing well in France

Black Cashmere - Donna Karan: Oriental, spicy.
Saffron, pimento, berries, clove, patchouli, incense, very labdanum, oriental, spicy.

Gucci Eau de Parfum - Gucci:
Oriental, sweet, powdery. Tuberose, clove, cumin, vanilla, animalic, classical, oriental. Historically, very much inspired by L'Heure Bleue (Guerlain).

Absolu - Rochas: Oriental, floral, citrus.
Feminine fragrance aiming to be "Femme" of the 2000s. Top notes: Fig Tree, Mandarin. Base: modern amber.

Dior Addict - Christian Dior: Oriental, sweet, powdery tabac like.
Obsession, Dune, green top notes, galbanum, jasmin, heliotrope, sandalwood, cedar, amber 83, vanilla, benzoin.
Top notes: Silk tree flower, mandarin leaf. heart: jamaican night queen flower.
Base: Bourbon vanilla absolute.
 
 

GUSTATIVE IS FRESHER:

The gustative theme was all started by Angel with its "cakey" notes in the early nineties.

Coco Mademoiselle - Chanel: Oriental, fruity, sweet, powdery.

Liquid 2002 - Hard Candy (American brand):
Oriental, sweet, powdery, liquorice. This is interesting because Angel never did very well in the U.S. Lactonic, milky note.

Chance - Chanel: A big departure for Chanel in terms of packaging.
Bergamot, basil, damascone, peach, rose, hedione, vanilla, milk, very like Angel, aniseedy.
A sphere of orbiting scents. For 21-29 year old women: supposed to have no top notes, middle, base.
 
 

MASCULINE PERFUMERY

CITRUS FRUITY FRESHNESS:

Modern citrus Grapefruit mandarin fruity pear pineapple, sparkling, vibrant.

Crave - Calvin Klein: new freshness, aromatic, crisp, grapefruit, orange, aniseed, basil, mint, pear, cedarwood, sandalwood, ambroxan.
Needs to be the next CK1!! Expecting this to be a huge success. Bottle is very complicated.

Polo Blue - Ralph Lauren: New freshness, green.
Focus on Cleanliness: hygiene notes being pushed to the extreme: freshly washed.
'T' for him - T.Hilfiger: Eau, musky, aldehyde. Wet T.Shirt accord.

Thierry Mugler Cologne: Eau musky, Moroccan soap inspired.
 
 

AROMATIC ACTION:

Crispy aromatic, sparkling citrus.

Intuition for Men - Estée Lauder: New freshness, aromatic.
Exotic, sensuous, intriguing, based on Intuition for Women. Oriental amber.
Sparkling fresh juice (which does not go with the colour of the packaging): citrus blend, woody, musky.
Top notes: sage absolute, tagette, cucumber, nutmeg and cardamom.
Heart: sap notes, patchouli, cedarwood.
Base notes: Myrrh, creamy incense, resin. Labdanum.

Bora Bora for Men: Fougere aromatic.

Baldessarini - Boss: the name was taken from the name of the boss of Hugo Boss! For more sophisticated older men. The advert says: it "separates the men from the boys!" Mandarin, orange, lemon, basil, patchouli, moss. A bit like Kouros, animalic.

Eau de Paco Rabanne: Fougere, aromatic, citrus.
 
 

NEW FLUIDITY:

Higher - Dior, 2001: didn't do well.

Truth for Men - Calvin Klein, 2002: New freshness, green, DHM, tarragon, lavender, hedione, moss, cedarwood, fir needle note.

Bazaar Homme: New freshness, woody. Acqua Di Gio for men area (which is now the number one worldwide best seller for men).

Kenneth Cole NY for Men: Fougere aromatic. DHM, tarragon, geranium, nutmeg, moss, cedarwood.
 
 

NEW SEXY FOR HIM:

Mirroring women's, ambery, woody, spicy, leather.

Givenchy pour Homme - Givenchy: Woody, spicy, citrus, virile. Inspired by Givenchy Gentleman.

Memoire d'Homme - Nina Ricci: Woody, spice.

Lagerfeld Homme - Karl Lagerfeld: woody, spicy but still clean, crisp, freshly washed top notes, ironed, sensual base woods, musk amber.
Yuzu zest, lavender, freshly ironed accord, cinnamon, cedarwood, transparent wood.
Very Eau de Cologne Roger & Gallet.

Mark Jacobs Men: woody, green, fig leaves, fig coconut, ginger, coumarin lots! Milky.

Cuiron - Helmut Lang: Woody, leather (David Beckham ordered 20 bottles).
bergamot, mandarin, moss, cedarwood, leather, olibanum, ciste, labdanum, dry, amber.

M7 - Yves St Laurent: Causing a scandal! Full frontal male nudity on some advertisements!
Oriental spicy. Plum, peach, saffron, rhum, ciste, labdanum, incense, sandalwood, patchouli, myrrh, very labdanum. Oudh with citrus, amber, musk, vetivert.
 
 

GUSTATIVE FOR MEN:

Lacoste: doing very well.
Oriental, fruity, grapefruit, juniper, apple, plum, cardamom, pink peppercorns, cinnamon, sandalwood, cedarwood, agarbois, incense, vanilla (interesting), rhum.

Boss in Motion: Oriental, fruity. Orange, mandarin, DHM, peach, apple, pineapple, rose, cyclamen.

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© Copyright British Society of Perfumers 2003