Fine Fragrance Trends 2008

A report on the presentation by Lauren Creecy, Givaudan Paris on 23rd October 2008, at the Marriott Hotel, Waltham Abbey

Givaudan Paris have reformulated the themes for the fine fragrance categories this year.

Feminine Themes Universal Freshness Fragrances in this category are breezy, light, feminine, vibrant. In 2008 the tropical trend continues. Be Delicious (Donna Karan) and Touch of Pink (Lacoste) are this category. Escale A Portofino (Christian Dior) CITRUS FLORAL GREEN Sparkling citrus, green, galbanum, bitter almond, musky, orange flower. Inspirational Ingredients: bergamot, petitgrain, bitter almond, juniper berry, caraway, cypress, galbanum; Un Jardin Apres La Mousson (Hermes) FLORAL GREEN MARINE (Translation: “A garden after the monsoon”.) Vivid citrus and spicy freshness with a “crème de menthe” facet, watery floralcy, transparent woods. Inspirational Ingredients: ginger flower, vetiver; Notorious (Ralph Lauren) FLORAL CHYPRE MARINE White floral, fluid marine, woody chypre signature, mandarin, carnation, cinnamon. Inspirational Ingredients: pink peppercorn, bergamot, carnation, peony, chocolate cosmos, orris, patchouli;
Textured Florals This theme includes single florals such as rose and iris, white florals, creamy florals. Stella (Stella McCartney) is an example in this category. Chloe (Coty Prestige) FLORAL FLORAL MUSKY A modern interpretation of rose with pink peppercorn, sparkling aldehydes and dewy green notes. Inspirational Ingredients: rose, peony, magnolia, honey; Feerie (Van Cleef & Arpels) FLORAL FLORAL WOODY A colourful blend of sunny citrus, juicy raspberry (this you can smell), green violet and iris heart, amber and woods. Inspirational Ingredients: violet, mandarin, rose, jasmine, iris, vetiver; Magnifique (Lancome) FLORAL WOODY FRUITY Created by Firmenich. Anne Hathaway stars in the commercial. Spicy saffron and cumin, seductive rose, red fruits, cherry, lychee, orange flower, sensual. Inspirational Ingredients: Saffron, cumin, rose, Australian sandalwood, vetiver, nagamota wood;
Velvet Sensuality Ange ou Demon (Givenchy) and Armani Code (Giorgio Armani) are examples in this category. MaDame (Jean Paul Gaultier) FLORAL FLORAL POWDERY Orange flower, lilac, tender floral, grenadine top note, hawthorn, enveloping powdery drydown. Citrus, mandarin, lemon, bergamot. Inspirational Ingredients: Acidic orange, rose, grenadine, musk, cedarwood; B Boucheron (L’Oreal) FLORAL ORIENTAL WOODY Tantalising orange flower, red fruits, woody oriental dry down, sensual, feminine. Inspirational Ingredients: Cedarwood Atlas, Australian sandalwood, patchouli, osmanthus, apricot, orange flower, rose absolute; Sensuous (Estee Lauder) ORIENTAL WOODY SPICY Timeless oriental with nutmeg and pepper, modern spices, seductive woods. Inspirational Ingredients: lily accord, magnolia, jasmine petals, molten woods, amber, sandalwood, black pepper, honey;
Gustative Delights Many fragrances have taken their inspirations from wines and cocktails this year. Angel (Thierry Mugler) and Lolita Lempicka are examples of this category. Ralph Wild (Ralph Lauren) FLORAL FRUITY GOURMAND Tart grapefruit, juicy red fruits, watermelon, strawberry, rosey, musky, sweet trail. Inspirational Ingredients: Pink pepper, watermelon, wild strawberry, cherry blossom, rose, amber, sandalwood; Innocent Rock (Thierry Mugler) CHYPRE FLORAL FRUITY Inspired by the wine, Gewurtzraminer. A sparkling fragrance with a chypre facet. Timeless Glamour This category contains the Oriental fragrances. 5 o’ Clock au Gingembre (Serge Lutens) ORIENTAL AROMATIC WOODY Gingerbread, aromatic notes, oriental. Inspirational Ingredients: Tea, ginger, cinnamon, vetiver, honey, candied fruits, amber;

Woody Timeless Glamour

Deseo (Jennifer Lopez)
FLORAL WOODY FRUITY
Green fig leaves, red fruits and white florals, creamy, woody (cedarwood and patchouli), musky.
Inspirational Ingredients: yuzu, wet bamboo leaf, star jasmin, orange blossom, patchouli, oakmoss, amber, mineral accord;

Bulgari Jasmin Noir (Bulgari)
FLORAL FLORAL WOODY
Jasmin / violet duo, dark woody dry down.
Inspirational Ingredients: green sap, gardenia, Sambac jasmin;

Secret Obsession (Calvin Klein)
FLORAL WHITE FRUITY WOODY
Eva Mendes stars in the advertisement.
Luscious tropical white floral, orchard fruits and creamy woods. A nice accord between the tuberose and cedarwood.
Inspirational Ingredients: Exotic plum, nutmeg, rose, jasmine, tuberose, cashmere woods, burnt amber, vanilla, Australian sandalwood;

We can observe how the main brands are now hiring celebrities such as actors/singers to promote their fragrances, in addition to the large numbers of celebrities launching their own fragrances – we are living in the age of the celebrity, where consumers are under tremendous influence to buy products endorsed by their favourite icon.

Masculine Themes

Universal Freshness
Monsieur Eau De Matin (Jean Paul Gaultier)
CITRUS MUSKY GREEN
Invigorating citrus, green tea, timeless aromatic, soft musks.
Inspirational Ingredients: Bergamot, petitgrain, spices, cedarwood, guaiacwood;

Dior Homme Sport (Christian Dior)
CITRUS SPICY MUSKY
Jude Law stars in the advertisement.
Timeless citrus introduces modern spices, comfortable musky drydown.
Inspirational Ingredients: Citron, grapefruit, rosemary, ginger, elemi, cedarwood, vetiver;

Guerlain Homme (Guerlain)
FOUGERE AROMATIC WOODY
An interesting video commercial using jungle animals.
Sparkling lime, refreshing aromatic, Morito cocktail of mint and basil notes, lavender, woody, leather notes.
Inspirational Ingredients: Morito cocktail accord, lime, mint, rum and rhubarb, green tea, pelargonium, vetiver, green rhubarb

Masculine Floralcy
Fragrances having a core note or accent which is floral, for example orange flower or iris. Dior Homme is this category.

Kenzo Power (Kenzo)
WOODY FLORAL MUSKY
Tulip, iris, cardamom, warm spices, musky, nutmeg, vanilla, basil.
Inspirational Ingredients: cardamom, coriander, cedarwood, vetiver, amber;

Prada Infusion D’Homme (Prada)
WOODY FLORAL CITRUS
Fresh iris for men, woody, musky drydown.
Inspirational Ingredients: Florentine iris Pallida, neroli, vetiver, cedarwood, incense, benzoin;

Vintage Fougere
Azzaro is in this category.

Pi Neo (Givenchy)
ORIENTAL AROMATIC WOODY
Fresh and fluid, modern aromatic, creamy fruity, peach and coconut, citrus, woody oriental.
Inspirational Ingredients: Bergamot, mandarin, cedarwood, patchouli, amber, vanilla, Toscanol*, Safraleine*, Cosmone*;

*Patented aroma chemicals;

Wolfgang Joop (Joop)
FOUGERE ORIENTAL AROMATIC
Masculine, aromatic, subtle orange flower, lavender, coriander, vetiver, sandalwood, cinnamon, patchouli;

1 Million (Paco Rabanne)
FOUGERE ORIENTAL AMBERY
Sparkling, fruity intro, cool mint, warm spices, orange blossom, sexy, ambery
Inspirational Ingredients: Grapefruit, mint, blood mandarin, rose, cinnamon, leather, patchouli;

New Oriental
Armani Code is this category.

Play (Givenchy)
WOODY GREEN AMBERY
Citrus, grapefruit, rhubarb, apple, rose, cedarwood, vetiver, fir balsam, amber, musk;
Inspirational Ingredients: Grapefruit, bitter orange, amyris, black pepper, coffee bush flower, patchouli, vetiver;

The One For Men (Dolce & Gabbana)
WOODY AMBERY AROMATIC
Addictive, woody, modern, aromatic, amber, tobacco, creamy.
Inspirational Ingredients: grapefruit, coriander, basil, cardamom, ginger, orange blossom, ambergris, tobacco;

Deep Woods
Diamonds for Him (Emporio Armani)
WOODY AMBERY AROMATIC
Rich, ambery, woody, fresh, aromatic, sage, dihydromyrcenol.
Inspirational Ingredients: Szechuan pepper, Italian citrus, cedarwood, cocoa bean, guaiacwood, vetiver;

Davidoff Adventure (Davidoff)
Deep woody notes (patchouli, moss, cedarwood, sandalwood), virile, fresh, spicy.
Inspirational Ingredients: Mate leaves, black sesame, pimento, cedarwood, white musk;

Dirty English (Juicy Couture)
CHYPRE LEATHER SPICY
Timeless chypre, irreverent spicy cocktail, very leathery, peppery.
Inspirational Ingredients: Peppered mandarin, blue cypress, caraway, cardamom, marjoram, black leather, proprietary Santal Fatal accord*, agarwood, ebony wood, black moss absolute;

As always, our thanks to Lauren for a fascinating presentation and line-up of fragrances!

Julie Towle

Return to BSP Archive News

This report is the writer's interpretation of the event. It is not intended as a verbatim account and should not be read as such.

Fine Fragrance Trends 2008

Feminine Themes

Masculine Themes