Fine Fragrance Trends 2005

BSP Talk on 17 November 2005 by Lauren Creecy,

Fine Fragrance Marketing Manager at Quest, Paris

FOR MEN

Eau Revival
Refreshing, crisp scents of vivid citrus notes modernized through a more
complex perfumery architecture

e.g. Herrera

Interesting Launch
True Star Men (Tommy Hilfiger)
Eau Musky Spicy
Saffron, fresh citrus, aromatic, musk, lime, grapefruit, aniseed, saffron, star anise, liquorice, rice, orris, cascarilla;

Vibrant Freshness
Fresh and fruity new freshness scents:  Dynamic citrus blended with a bold
dose of sparkling fruity notes for a modern, often youthful, freshness.

e.g. Kenneth Cole Reaction for Men

Interesting Launch
Lacoste Essential (P & G) ex IFF
New Freshness Fruit Aromatic
Bright cold fruitiness + clean modern woods
Grapefruit, lime, dihydro myrcenol, pineapple, green apple, cedar, white woods, dry amber, musk, tangerine, tomato leaves, cassis, patchouli, mossy;

New Fluidity
Modern freshness notes paired with more classical facets underlining
structural masculinity.
Unusual and exotic ingredients offer a new hook to today’s new freshness
structures.

e.g. Bulgari Aqua pour Homme

Polo Black (Ralph Lauren)
New Freshness Aromatic Mint
Green citrus + aromatic mint
Mandarin, mint, apple, pineapple, transparent floral, pepper, juniper berries, cedar, dry amber, coumarin, iced mango, Spanish sage, silver armoise, patchouli noir;

Interesting Launch
Be Delicious Men

Aromatic Action
The classic elegance of the fougère continues to evoke pure masculinity;
recent launches play with trendy ingredients such as rich woods.

e.g. Del Mar Baldessarini

Silver Black (Azzaro) ex Quest
Fougere Aromatic Fruity
Lime, lavender, armoise, cypress, rosemary, apple, transparent floral, carvi, juniper berries, vetivert, patchouli, sandalwood, dry amber, musk, coriander, anise, cardamom;

Arpege pour Homme (Lanvin) ex Givaudan
Fougere Aromatic Ambery (link with original Arpege)
Aromatic fougere + basil + citrus
Woody, ambery trail + petitgrain, neroli, iris, jasmine, tonka bean, sandalwood, patchouli, bitter orange, iris, dry amber;

Kenneth Cole Signature ex Symrise
Fougere Aromatic Green
Grapefruit, violet, pimento berries, cardamom, coffee beans, deep marine notes, orris root, water lily, smoky amber, peppers, cedarwood, moss;

Emporio City Glam for Him
Fougere Aromatic Citrus
Chinese galangal, Brazilian peppermint, petitgrain, neroli;

Interesting Launch
Hugo Energize ex Quest
Woody Citrus Aromatic
Kumquat, melon, pink pepper seed, cardamom, coriander leaf, white freesia, jacaruba wood, amyris, black cocoa, roebuck leather, suede, amber, fir balsam, orange, lime, lavender, damascone, moss, cedar, sparkling citrus top notes;

New Sexy
Modern masculine sensuality makes a bold statement combining mysterious
woods, exotic spices, and rich balms.

e.g. Boss Soul

Comme des Garcons Man 2 ex Symrise
Woody Ambery Spicy
Spicy woods, leather, incense, angelica, dry amber, saffron flower, cumin, mahoga (red cedar);

Silver Shadow (Davidoff) ex Quest
Oriental Fruity Aromatic
Bitter orange, cedar leaves, saffron, patchouli, fruity, aromatic, armoise, dihydro myrcenol, lavender, apple, damascone, cedar, dry amber, benzoin, vanilla, ambery, fruity;
 

Zirh Corduroy (Shiseido) ex Quest
Woody Leather
Aquacoral, white lavender, cardamom, bay rum, cinnamon, nutmeg, davana, suede, Kashmir wood, guaiacwood, tonka bean, leather, exotic spices, vanilla, dihydro myrcenol, cedar;
 

Interesting Launch
Dior Homme ex IFF (Olivier Polges, son of Jacques)
Floral Floral Woody
Citrus, aromatic top, woody, aromatic heart + powdery vanilla, bergamot, lavender, iris, cumin, ginger, orris, vetivert, dry amber, cardamom, cocoa, patchouli;
 

Gustative
Sweet sensuality in classic masculine structures is no longer a niche
phenomenon.

e.g Black XS (Paco Rabanne) ex Firmenich – Olivier Cresp
Woody Musky Fruity
Juicy fruity becomes musky woody.
Grapefruit, green mandarin, pineapple, apple, cedar, dry amber, musk, kalamanzest (Philippine mandarin), praline, cinnamon, tolu balsam, black cardamom, palassander wood, black amber, patchouli, ebony wood;

Interesting Launch
Very Irresistible for Men (Givenchy) ex IFF
Woody Ambery Citrus
Ambery + aromatic, mandarin, mint, apple, pineapple, cedar, vetivert, dry amber, grapefruit peel, mint leaf, sesame seed, mocha, cocoa, hazelnut wood;

David Beckham Instinct (Coty) ex IFF
Italian bergamot, orange, mandarin, star anise, cardamom, red pimento, Haitian vetivert, patchouli, white amber;
 
 

FOR WOMEN

Eau Revival
Refreshing, crisp scents of vivid citrus notes modernized through a more
complex perfumery architecture.

Interesting Launch
CK One Summer
Citrus, grapefruit, orange, floral heart, wrapped in musk, tangerine, pineapple, frangipani, hot sand accord, play on fruity floral facet, mango, peach, muguet;

Clean & Sexy
The sexy contrast of fresh clean notes (citrus, green) and sexy skin notes
(musks, pale woods).

e.g Happy to Be (Clinique)
Jil Sander Sport for Women

Interesting Launch
CK One Scene
Musky Floral Green
Abstract floral accented with spices on musky, dry ambery, green leaves, amber, rosewood, ginger root, vanilla, juniper berries;

Radiant Florals
Blooming femininity meets vibrant freshness with these dynamic, carefree
feminine scents. Exotic florals are on the rise.

e.g. Rockin Rio (Escada)

Un Jardin Sur Mer (Hermes)

Cerruti 1881 Collection

Live (Jennifer Lopez) ex IFF
Sicilian lemon, orange, redcurrant, caramel, tonka bean, fruity – strawberry, raspberry, apple, pineapple;

Interesting Launch
Promesse (Cacharel)
Floral Fruity Musky
Subtle velvety floral, fruity musky accord, bergamot, mandarin, blackberry, cassis, peach, rose, musk, orchid;

Timeless Floral
A   traditional   floral   bouquet   evokes   the  many  qualities  of  its
components--the   sophistication   of  classical  rose,  the  innocence  of
early-spring lily of the valley, the elegance of petally-soft peony.
 

Interesting Launch
Tumulte (Christian Lacroix)
Floral Floral Floral
Rose, sweet, powdery + juicy fruitiness, green mandarin, fresh, eau de rose, heliotrope, Florentine iris wood, tonka bean, Indonesian patchouli, lychee, amber;

Signature Floral
Opulent floral creations traditionally evoke glamorous femininity through
rich white floral notes… today modernized by exotic florals.

e.g. Escada ex Fragrance Resources (Pierre Bourdon)
Floral Floral Floral White Bouquet
Classic white floral, red fruit, white flowers, jasmine, soft amber, vanilla, musk, leafy green, cucumber, lemon, sea breeze accord, honeydew, nectarine, orris, patchouli;

Interesting Launch
Pure Turquoise (Ralph Lauren) ex Firmenich
Floral White Fruity Musky
Juicy lychee on white floral, rose heart + musk, salicylate, cassis, rose, jasmine, tuberose, musk, indigo violet petals, cactus flower, night-blooming cereus, orange flower absolute, desert lily, patchouli, silver birchwood, amber, rum;

Soft & Intimate
The  warmth  and depth of modern orientals and powdery florals for your own
personal  pleasure…  These  modern  structures  surround  us with a subtle,
comforting, yet sensual embrace.

e.g. Very Valentino
Summer by Kenzo
Paradise Passion

Interesting Launch
Obsession Night for Women
Oriental Sheer Spicy
Aromatic + spicy top notes on warm, ambery, oriental accord, lavender, muguet, rose, jasmine, pink peppercorn, pepper, dry amber, vanilla, bitter orange, angelica root, night-blooming jasmine, labdanum, cashmere woods;

Rich & Seductive
Signature  fragrances  make  a statement, these sumptuous creations combine
precious  and  exotic  ingredients…  Today  we  see more and more classical
perfumery inspirations.

e.g. Angel Peony, Lily & Violet

Silver Rain

Lovely  (Sarah Jessica Parker) ex IFF
Chypre Floral Musky
Chypre with musks, plum, rose, muguet, carnation, patchouli, moss, honey, musk, paper whites crisp apple martini

Euphoria ex IFF
Oriental Sheer Fruity Woody Patchouli
Green apple, pineapple in woody, oriental, plum, patchouli, moss, soft amber, vanilla, caramel, milk, heliotropin, persimmon, pomegranate, black orchid;

Emporio City Glam (Giorgio Armani) ex Firmenich
Chypre Fruity Fruity Peach Musky
Contemporary chypre with peach + modern sensuality, lychee, rose, jasmine, patchouli, moss, cedarwood, dry amber, musk, Mirabelle plum, coriander, Indian patchouli;

Flower by Kenzo Oriental
Oriental Classic Ambery Woody
Rich oriental interpretation of original Flower by Kenzo; exotic woods, sweet amber, rose, pepper, cinnamon, patchouli, sandalwood, amber, vanilla, tonka bean;

Gaultier 2
Oriental Floral Sweet Powdery
A sexed (not unisex) fragrance
Fruity, ambery, musky, powdery, gourmand, orange flower, soft amber, vanilla, almond, heliotrope, musk, dry amber;

Interesting Launch
Alien (Thierry Mugler) ex IFF
Floral White Ambery Woody
Rich, white floral bouquet (orange flower, tuberose, ylang, jasmine) in woody, ambery trail, Cashmeran, white transparent Sambac jasmine, cardamom, heliotrope;

Gustative Delight
A nostalgic wink of sweet delights creates a scrumptious addiction.

e.g Flower Bomb (Viktor & Rolf)
Dior Cherie
Burberry Brit Red
Fantasy (Britney Spears) ex Givaudan
Oriental Sheer Fruity Musky
Red lychee, golden quince, cupcake accord, white chocolate, orchid, orris root, gourmand fruity oriental, red fruit, pineapple, peach, musky, sweet vanilla trail, strawberry, raspberry, pineapple, peach, ethyl maltol, vanilla-milk, musk;

Interesting Launch
Hypnose (Lancome)
Oriental Floral Sweet Powdery Fruity
Fruity top notes lead to oriental accord.
Powdery, ambery, cassis, star anise, almond, heliotrope, white flowers, cedarwood, sandal, dry amber, passionflower, vanilla.
 

by Ruth Mastenbroek

This report is the writer's interpretation of the event. It is not intended as a verbatim account and should not be read as such.

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