2004 Fine Fragrances Launches
Presentation
Cheshunt Marriott Hotel, Hertfordshire,
UK
Reviewed by Clio VIDAL
For the last 4 years, the BSP November meeting
has been one of the most popular events within the BSP programme.
No wonders: it combined a very informative
presentation, loads of smelling and dreaming, diving into the marketing
world of the latest FF launches, all orchestrated by Quest talented Marketing
Director, Sacha Borodinsky.
Unfortunately, Sacha left for some pastures
new… leaving a challenging gap to fill in.
But with bags of enthusiasm and a contagious
passion for Perfumes, Lauren Creecy was not afraid of stepping in to conquer
an anxious crowd. American, Lauren worked at Dragoco US before joining
Quest and being offered the post of FF Marketing Manager at their French
headquarters, near Paris. She took us through the main FF launched this
year with the Quest classification in mind.
A. Female Fragrances
1. Eaux revivals
Since the launch of Bulgari Eau Parfumée
Au Thé Vert and following the incredible success of both CK
One, that modernised the fresh citrus theme, and Thierry Mugler’s Cologne,
that made it more complex , the “Eaux” family keeps on this path becoming
more complex with green, marine and woody accords complementing the main
citrus notes. Main launches were: Aquazur (Lancaster) and Winter
Four Seasons (Van Cleef & Arpels).
2. Clean & Sexy
This is a recent family with its main parent
being Glow (2002) by Jennifer Lopez and a clean skin, “out of the
shower” sexiness where musks are real key notes. In 2003, some activity
has already been seen there with Pure by Jil Sander and Breathless
by Victoria’s Secret. Main 2004 launches include the clever: Eau des
Merveilles (Hermès), a revival of masculine woody notes like
vetiver enhanced by some very aldehydic top notes.
3. Radiant Florals
This is still the traditional family of easy
to wear, day fragrances. Tendency is towards more natural notes with quite
a lot of fruitiness (red and exotic fruits). As usual a very busy family
with many launches: Ralph Lauren Ralph Cool, Summer Four Seasons
(Van Cleef & Arpels), Island Kiss (Escada), Lacoste Touch
of Pink (it aims to seduce new young consumers as Lacoste would like
to capitalise on its success of the 80-90’ies but faces the “ageing” of
its customers), Tommy Hilfiger's True Star (the face of True
Star is Beyoncé who features in a black and white advertising
campaign, quite a different style for Tommy Hilfiger who seems to go for
this “timeless” style like many of his fellow American designers), Love
in Paris (Nina Ricci), Christian Dior's Dior me Dior me not
(travel retail only), Ralph Lauren Lauren Style (Lauren Style
advertising
uses the same black and white symbolism for capitalising on timeless family
values and a “New England” atmosphere), Echo Woman (Davidoff) ,
Ungaro Apparition, DKNY Be Delicious (Be Delicious
is the first perfume launch with DNKY license under Estee Lauder-it was
previously owned by LVMH).
4. Timeless florals
Their share has increased as difficulties
in economical and political spheres push customers towards classical, “safe”
values and in term of fragrances, these are Florals with in 2004: Love
fills L’air du Temps (Nina Ricci), YSL Paris Rose des Bois,
Aqua di Roma (Laura Biagotti), Iris Nobile (Aqua di Parma),
Calvin Klein's Eternity Moment (Scarlett Johnson is the face for
Eternity and a trend to choose actresses for fragrance faces is
emerging with Charlize Theron for J’Adore and Nicole Kidman for
Chanel No 5).
5. Signature florals
Floral is still the main theme but rich and
striking. They are inspired by designers like Kate Spade and Marc Jacobs
and followers of the big success of Beyond Paradise by Estée
Lauder: Poupée (Rochas), Britney Spears' Curious,
Blush by Marc Jacobs, Pure Poison (Christian Dior).
6. Soft & Intimate
They are comforting and warm but not in an
overpowering way which makes them attractive to many consumers' age group.
In 2004, they include: Amor Amor (Cacharel), Liz Claiborne Curve
for her, Just Cavalli by Roberto Cavalli, Armani Mania
(the first fragrance called Mania did not work, they re-launched
a brand new fragrance with the same name but putting a “smile” on the model’s
face), Visit For her (Azzaro), YSL Cinéma (tribute
to the French actress, Catherine Deneuve, who has always been very close
to Yves Saint Laurent), London for Women by Paul Smith , Versace
Crystal Noir, Max Mara Max Mara.
7. Rich & seductive
These are evening scents “par excellence”
and are making a comeback following the success of L’Instant by
Guerlain: Narcisso Rodriguez (Narcisso Rodriguez), Boucheron Trouble,
Prada Prada.
8. Gustative delights
Capitalising on all these nostalgic memories
of sweet delights and other scrumptious temptations that Angel has
made us remember and like to wear, the 2004 addition is Aqualina Pink
Sugar.
B. Male Fragrances
1. Eaux Revival
As Eaux are becoming more complex, they tend
to be less seen as unisex. Male ones develop more masculine character through
woody notes like Aqua di Roma Uomo from Laura Biagiotti.
2. Vibrant Freshness
With modernised ozonic accords, this is a
very energetic family with bold freshness for the most dynamic men: Davidoff
Echo and Cool Water Deep, Lacoste Style In Play.
3. New Fluidity
Emphasis is still put on the freshness but
all fluidized with clean notes: Chic for Men by Carolina Herrera,
Curve Crush for Him (Liz Claiborne), Estée Lauder's Beyond
Paradise Men.
4. Aromatic
Inspired by the classical aromatic fougère,
this success prone family is still very popular e.g.: Boss in Motion
Blue Edition (Hugo Boss), Cerruti Si, Vera Wang for Men
(Vera Wang), Paul Smith London for Men.
5. New Sexy
Beware! Judging by the amount of launches
in this category, seduction is not a feminine speciality any longer! Allure
Homme Sport (Chanel), John Varvatos John Varvatos, Roberto Cavalli's
Just Cavalli, Thierry Mugler's B-Man, Burberry Brit for
Men (Burberry), Trussardi Jeans for Men by Trussardi.
6. Gustative for men
Nor is gustative treats! B*Men from
Thierry Mugler.
As usual, it was a well-attended meeting with lots to smell (hurray!) followed by a finger buffet (hurray too! It is indeed very nice to be fed before getting back in our cars for some long drive!). Lauren has definitely conquered her audience and I’m sure that next November, they will all come back for their annual feast of smells and chicken drumsticks.