The above was the title of the talk given by Rhona Wells on the 3rd February to the joint meeting with the Society of Cosmetic Scientists. The text follows in full as it was such a fascinating subject.
Kyphi, myrrh, frankinsence, jasmin are only a few of the evocative words that had drawn us to want to explore in more depth the wonders of Ancient Egypt, under the expert guidance of Dr. Lisa Manniche, an eminent Egyptologist, specialist in Aromatherapy, cosmetics, perfumes and herbs.
The first stop was the Cairo Archaeological Museum, where we were transported back to the splendours of the Ancient Egyptian tombs, especially the Tutankhamun treasures; the museum is cram-packed with antiquities, with some exquisite perfume bottles, cosmetic jars, jewellery etc. The Egyptians were already very conscious of the important part that scents can play in well-being, maintaining an equilibrium between body and spirit, they therefore always deposited scented oils near the deceased to ensure that their needs were fulfilled and that their rebirth would be a pleasant experience.
We journey to Aswan, an old town which has retained a gracious air of past colonial influences, feluccas tack across the Nile to the Botanical Gardens on Kitchener Island, where pink, purple and peachy bougainvilleas overhang the paths lined with fragrant jasmin, frangipani and oleander bushes, intermingling with henna, Madonna Lilies and large castor oil plants, all used in the Ancient Egyptians' perfume recipes, not forgetting the pomegranates.
Having delighted in the beauty of the temple of Philae, the pearl of the Nile, we cruised on up the river, with the picture postcard unfolding itself peacefully, no different from thousands of years ago. On board, we benefit from Lisa's extensive knowledge, before arriving at Edfu.
The temple at Edfu holds a special fascination as it houses one of the best known 'perfume laboratories'; the hieroglyphics on these walls hold the key to some of the mystical perfumes of the past. For example Kyphi; although its recipe varies slightly from temple to temple, the ingredients always amount to sixteen (4x4) and consist of raisins, burned resin, myrrh, sweet rush, aspalathos, juniper, cypress grass, honey and wine. Kyphi was burnt nightly to please the Gods as they began their journey into the underworld and to ensure the safe return of the sun God, Ra the next morning - never failing. Never has any society burnt as much Incense as the Ancient Egyptians, copiously used in rituals, it was also widely used in daily living.
Other formulas adorn the walls of the perfume room; Hekenu (to anoint divine limbs), the Metopian, the Megalion... In their way, they were already applying Aromatherapy, the preparations being effective either through fume inhalation or through massage.
The Metopian was a fragrant preparation used to treat stomach ailments, a heady concoction of cardamom and myrrh; the Megalion a soothing ointment for burned or inflamed skin, the Egyptians also used as scent; not forgetting Theriaque, a herbal preparation used to dispel anxiety, still made up by the herbalist in modern day Cairo. The ingredients conjure up a mystically fragrant past - balanos oil, myrrh, frankincense, serpent skin, wine from the oasis, cinnamon, aspalathos resins, balsam, sweet rush.
Although they may not have known perfumes as we do, the origins of perfume "pro fumare" (through smoke), are only too evident, all temples featuring incense burning and throwing. They had also discovered the therapeutic properties of many herbs, garlic being especially prized and actually part of the workers wages. They also received unguents and would strike if neither was forthcoming.
Their pictorial and hieroglyphic records are an invaluable legacy to our current rediscovery of aroma-chology; they had already 5000 years ago, understood the vital role that fragrance could play in maintaining a harmonious balance between body and soul - a science that we are just beginning to explore.