FINE FRAGRANCE TRENDS 2007
Report on the talk by LAUREN CREECY, Givaudan Paris

FEMININE THEMES:
RADIANT FLORALS:
Fruity and green floral notes. Easy, carefree fragrances. Tropical fruits, papaya/guava notes.

Ralph Rocks (Ralph Lauren)
FLORAL, FRUITY, SWEET, POWDERY
Exotic fruity cocktail, sensual gustative drydown.
Orange, grapefruit, pineapple, transparent floral, jasmine, coconut, warm milk, vanilla, caramel.
Special ingredients: Passionfruit, kiwi, hyacinth, palm leaves.

C’est la Fete (Christian Lacroix)
FLORAL, FRUITY, LYCHEE

Daisy (Marc Jacobs)
FLORAL, FLORAL FRUITY
Cut grass top note, pear, apple, melon, rose, jasmine, vanilla, musk.
Special ingredients: violet leaves, red grapefruit.

Believe (Britney)
Roxy by Roxy

L (Gwen Stefani Coty Prestige)
FLORAL, FLORAL FRUITY MUSKY
Soft floral bouquet, roses, muguet, peach, apple, musk. Transparent floral/musk, transparent woods.
Special ingredients: heliotrope flower, peach skin

Emporio Diamonds
FLORAL, FRUITY, FRUITY
The advertising video features Beyonce.
Rich red orchard fruits, rose, lychee, powdery, musky, mandarin, muguet, red fruit.
 

TIMELESS FLORALS:
Return to classic floral notes such as Iris.

Prada Infusion d’Iris
FLORAL, WOODY, ORRIS, CITRUS
Citrus introduction, sophisticated iris, woody.
Bergamot, mandarin, rose, iris, orris, cedarwood, dry/soft amber, vanilla, musk.
Special Ingredients: galbanum, lentisque, iris, benzoin, incense, vetiver, cedarwood. Almost masculine woody notes.

Kelly Caleche (Hermes)
FLORAL, WOODY, LEATHER
Soft floralcy, fruity, aromatic, leather drydown.
Bergamot, mint, tea, fig leaves, cassis buds, raspberry, iris, guaiacwood, cedarwood, moss, dry amber, ambrette seeds, honey.

Unforgivable Woman (Sean John)
FLORAL, FRUITY, WOODY

Elle (YSL)
FLORAL, WOODY, SPICY
Sparkling citrus and warm spices, floral heart, rose, jasmine, powdery, ambery, woody.
Special Ingredients: cedar, lychee, peony, freesia, vetiver, patchouli, pepper.
YSL is targeting a younger audience.

Kate (Kate Moss)
FLORAL, FLORAL, FLORAL ROSE
 

SIGNATURE FLORALS:
Same category as Amarige, Beyond Paradise.

Versace Eau de Parfum

Vivara (Emilio Pucci LVMH)
FLORAL, GREEN, FLORAL, WHITE
Surprising green, galbanum top note, white floral bouquet, orange flower, jasmine, tuberose, carnation, patchouli, musk.
Special Ingredients: amaretto accord, Florentine iris.
 

SOFT AND INTIMATE:

CKIN2U HER
(IFF created this)
ORIENTAL, SHEER CITRUS, SWEET, POWDERY
Citrus sorbet, grapefruit top note, vanilla, maltol, sensual.
Lemon, lime, transparent floral, cedarwood, soft amber, ethyl maltol, vanilla.
Special Ingredients: pink grapefruit, redcurrant leaves, ‘orchid sugar accord’, cactus, red cedarwood, vanilla soufflé.

My Insolence (Guerlain)
ORIENTAL, SHEER FLORAL FRUITY
Sparkling, red fruity introduction, cassis, raspberry, timeless floral heart, rose, iris, jasmine, woods and vanilla.
Cassis buds, almond, violet, moss, cedarwood, balsam, tonka, heliotropin.
Special ingredients: Raspberry, Almond blossom.

L’instant Magic (Guerlain)
ORIENTAL, SHEER SWEET AND POWDERY, MUSKY
Timeless Guerlain signature infused with powdery iris, modern musks.
Pink peppercorn, heliotrope.

Hugo XX (Hugo Boss)
 

RICH & SEDUCTIVE:

Miss Boucheron

Fuel for Life (Diesel)

Midnight Poison (fifth variation of Poison) (Firmenich created this)
CHYPRE, FLORAL, AMBERY, FRUITY
Patchouli, amber, vanilla, warm, spicy [pepper] orchard fruits, floral, woody, ambery trail.
Plum, apple, rose, jasmine, clove, cinnamon, patchouli, soft musk.

Zen Shiseido 2007
CHYPRE, FLORAL, FRUITY
Unique, aromatic, camomile and green apple duo, rose heart, woods (patchouli) amber, damascone, dry amber, musk.
Special Ingredients: blue rose, rose and violet with lemon note, marine plant, lotus flower.

Gucci by Gucci
CHYPRE

Palazzo (Fendi)

Delicious Night (Donna Karan) (IFF)
CHYPRE, FLORAL, AMBERY
Modern chypre, warm spicy sugary fruits, woody, ambery, orange, plum, red fruit, pear, rose, muguet, jasmine, iris, patchouli, moss, dry/soft amber, benzoin, vanilla, musk.
Special Ingredients: Frozen pomelo, crushed ginger, chilled blackberry martini accord, purple freesia, night-blooming orchids, satin jasmine, purple iris.
 

GUSTATIVE DELIGHTS:
(Angel is in this category)

Eau de Star (Thierry Mugler)
ORIENTAL  SHEER  FLORAL WOODY
Fresh, fluid, mimosa bouquet, woody, sweet, oriental,  calone,  dewfruit, cumin, nutmeg, pink peppercorn, patchouli, moss, honey, tonka bean, coumarin, vanilla, ethyl maltol.

Black XS For Her (Paco Rabanne)
ORIENTAL  SHEER  FRUITY WOODY

Covet (Sarah Jessica Parker)
ORIENTAL SHEER AROMATIC LAVENDER
Oriental, gourmand, lavender, floral, woody, musky, lavender, rose, transparent floral, cedarwood, moss, dry amber.
 
 
 
 
 
 

MASCULINE THEMES:

EAU REVIVAL:

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue pour Homme
EAU AMBERY AROMATIC
Aromatic, spicy, dihydromyrcenol, ambery, woody, lemon, bergamot, basil, lavender, ginger, coriander, cedarwood, moss.
 

VIBRANT FRESHNESS:

Sunset Heat (Escada)
 

NEW FLUIDITY:

Cerrutti Pour Homme
 

AROMATIC ACTION:

RSVP (Kenneth Cole)
FOUGERE AROMATIC AMBERY
Aromatic timeless elegance, masculine, woody, ambery, lemon, lavender, rosemary, basil, orange flower, patchouli, cedarwood, dry amber, coumarin, musk.
Special Ingredients: wet grass, iris, orchid, soft cashmere.

Joop Go!

CKIN2U HIM
FOUGERE AROMATIC WOODY
Aromatic notes, majestic woods, timeless masculinity, petitgrain,  armoise, thyme, lavender, mint, geranium, patchouli, moss, soft/dry amber, coumarin, musk.

Hypnose Homme (Lancome)

Narciso Rodriguez for Him
FOUGERE AROMATIC LEATHER
Aromatic fougere, accented with violet notes, deep woody ambery/leather notes.
Sage, lavender, galbanum, geranium, violet, pepper , moss, patchouli, leather, dry amber.
Special Ingredients: musk, violet, ambergris.

Gucci Pour Homme

Fuel for Life (Diesel, L’Oreal)

Hugo XY (Hugo Boss)
WOODY AROMATIC FLORAL
Fluid freshness, crisp, aromatic, green, fruity, banana, mint, woody, moss, cedarwood, aniseed, violet leaf, melon, apple, transparent floral, cumin.  Almost unisex.
 

NEW SEXY FOR HIM:

Calvin Klein Man (Firmenich)
CHYPRE AROMATIC GREEN
Salty note.
Green, violet leaves, warm spicy.

Polo Explorer (Ralph Lauren)

Silver Shadow Altitude (Davidoff)

Ice * Men (Thierry Mugler)

Fleur du Male (Jean Paul Gaultier)
ORIENTAL FLORAL SWEET + POWDERY
Unique overdose of orange flower. Orange flowery, interlaced with animalic notes. Sweet sensual masculinity, petitgrain, neroli, galbanum, orange flower, costus, civet, honey, coumarin, musk.

Giorgio Armani Attitude
WOODY AROMATIC SWEET POWDERY
Woody, masculine, rich, patchouli and amber enlivened by lavender. Lavender, rosemary, patchouli, dry/soft amber.

Lacoste Elegance

Fahrenheit 32 (Christian Dior)
ORIENTAL FLORAL AROMATIC
Surprising orange flower, elegant anise, timeless vetiver, masculine ambery/sweet powdery. Bergamot, neroli, anise, calone, orange flower.

Tokyo by Kenzo

Tom Ford for Men
WOODY CITRUS AMBERY
Timeless woody ambery (vetiver, moss, cedarwood).
Fresh citrus introduction, floral spicy accents, lemon, bergamot, basil, dihydromyrcenol, anise, salicylate, violet, nutmeg , pepper, vetiver, moss, cedarwood, soft amber, vanilla.
Special Ingredients: lemon leaf oil, basil, mandarin zest, violet leaves, ginger, orange flower absolute, black pepper, tobacco leaf absolute, Moroccan grapefruit flower,
Cedarwood heart, vetiver mist, leatherwood.
 

Julie Towle

This report is the writer's interpretation of the event. It is not intended as a verbatim account and should not be read as such.

© Copyright British Society of Perfumers 2008

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