Fine Fragrance Evening – Launches of 2009

A report on a presentation by Hugh Wilson and Yvonne Hockey from Givaudan on 29th October 2009, at the Marriott Hotel, Waltham Abbey

After a brief history of his career, including spells at L’Oreal, Lancôme, running his own food industry business, to his present role at Givaudan, Hugh started by showing us some of the major feminine fragrances launched during 2009:

Women’s Fragrances

Universal Freshness:

Eau Mega - Viktor & Rolf
FLORAL WHITE FLORAL FRUITY
Their third fragrance and the second for women, the name coming from a play on the greek letter Omega, the tag line is Megafy Yourself, the bottle called a Megamizer! Eau Mega is a green floral with an “extravagant freshness”. Compared to their usual style this one is pure minimalism.

The notes include lime, green pear, banana, melon, citron, violet leaf, basil, peony, jasmine, tuberose, cedarwood, lactones and musk.

Tous H20 - Perfumes Tous
CITRUS FLORAL MARINE
A Spanish brand that uses organic alcohol and contains some organic essential oils. 25% of the glass is recycled.
Bergamot, lemon, lime, mint, green tea, rose, jasmine, marine, orange flower, cedarwood and musk.

Escale A Pondichery - Christian Dior
CITRUS FLORAL GREEN
Bergamot, petitgrain, lavender, cardamom, green tea, transparent florals, muguet and musk.

A Scent By Issey Miyake
CITRUS FLORAL GREEN
Lemon, petitgrain, galbanum, orange flower, rose, muguet and musk.

Muguet Blanc - Collection Extraordinaire
Van Cleef & Arpels (Inter Parfums)
FLORAL FLORAL GREEN
Green, jasmine, muguet, ylang ylang, cyclamen, musk and powdery.

Rose The One – Dolce & Gabbana
FLORAL FRUITY CITRUS
Pink grapefruit, mandarin, green, peach, apricot, cassis, rose, jasmine, musk, vanilla and moss.

Textured Florals:

Parisienne - YSL
FLORAL FRUITY SWEET
Parisienne, a new rose-based floral fragrance for women fronted by model Kate Moss.
The notes include a vinyl accord evoking metal gloss and varnish, damask rose, violet, peony, patchouli and vetiver. Additional notes include raspberry, lychee, cranberry, blackberry, pear, warm milk, musk, vanilla, maltol and sandalwood.

La Lune – Dolce & Gabbana Anthology
FLORAL WHITE FLORAL POWDERY
Citrus, green, fruity, white flowers, orange flower, tuberose, moss, suede, musk, powdery and vanilla.

Bulgari Blu Eau de Parfum II
FLORAL WOODY POWDERY
Cherry, almond, jasmine, violet, patchouli, vetiver, musk, ciste labdanum, coumarin and liquorice.

Scarlett – Cacharel
FLORAL FRUITY SWEET
Orange, green, peach, red fruits, rose, tuberose, orange flower, cedarwood, musk, dry amber, honey and vanilla.

Very Hollywood – Michael Kors
FLORAL WHITE FLORAL FRUITY
Orange, peach, melon, tuberose, ylang ylang, sandalwood, musk, coumarin and lactones.

Couture Couture – Juicy Couture
FLORAL WHITE FLORAL FRUITY
Green, pineapple, grape, orange flower, white flowers, dry amber, soft amber, vanilla and benzoin.

Wanted – Helena Rubenstein
Their first fragrance launch since 1985!
FLORAL WHITE FLORAL FRUITY
Lemon, bergamot, green, pear, jasmine, iris, magnolia, cedarwood, sandalwood, musk, dry amber and vanilla.

Lys Carmin – Collection extraordinaire Van Cleef & Arpels
FLORAL WHITE FLORAL POWDERY
Lys, carnation, ylang ylang, clove, vanilla and benzoin.

Velvet Sensuality:

Orange For Woman – Hugo Boss
ORIENTAL FLORAL FRUITY
This is the first women’s perfume from the Boss Orange label, which is described as sportier than the Hugo and Boss Black lines. The Boss Orange fragrance is described as “sensual and luminous”, The scent features notes of apple, orange blossom, jasmine, plum, white peach, vanilla, sandalwood and olive tree wood.

Above plus apricot, red fruits, pineapple, rose, almond, muguet, soft amber, and heliotrope.

Black Star – Avril Lavigne
ORIENTAL FLORAL GREEN
Green, coconut, peach, pear, rose, transparent florals, sandalwood, amber, heliotrope, vanilla and maltol.

Jil – Jil Sander
ORIENTAL GREEN FLORAL
Bergamot, lemon, lavender, green, peach, orange flower, sandalwood, musk, dry amber, soft amber, vanilla and coumarin.

Gustative Delights (Gourmande):

Ricci Ricci - Nina Ricci
FLORAL GOURMANDE WOODY
Based on an urban heroine, Ricci Ricci is audacious and glamorous with a power symbolized by her ribbon. The fragrance is described as a “fresh, floral sensual fragrance”.
Rhubarb zest, bergamot, orange, red fruits, moonflower, tuberose, centifolia rose, vanilla, patchouli, warm milk, maltol and sandalwood.

Ange ou Demon Le Secret – Givenchy
FLORAL FRUITY CITRUS
Pink grapefruit, orange, green, blackcurrant, raspberry, peach, jasmine, orange flower, musk, dry amber and vanilla.

L’imperatice – D&G Anthology
FLORAL FRUITY FRUITY
Bergamot, orange, green, melon, banana, strawberry, peach, transparent florals, jasmine, vanilla and lactones.

Desire Me – Escada
FLORAL FRUIT SWEET
Sap, pear, peach and raspberry.

Lola – Marc Jacobs
FLORAL FRUITY SWEET
Pear, litchi, peach, red fruits, rose, peony, jasmine, warm milk, vanilla and sandalwood.

La Roue de la Fortune – D&G Anthology
ORIENTAL GOURMANDE FLORAL
Orange, green, calone, peach, white flowers, tuberose, patchouli, soft amber, dry amber, maltol and vanilla.

Oriental Timeless Glamour:

L’eau Ambree - Prada
ORIENTAL FLORAL CITRUS
The latest in their amber-based perfumes. The new fragrance from Prada promises to have a “…graceful presence, empowering but never demanding”.
Bergamot, mandarine, lemon, iris, violet, May rose, gardenia jasminoides, patchouli, tonka, oppoponax, vanilla, modern amber, heliotrope and benzoin.

Daphne – Daphne Guinness / Comme des Garcons
FLORAL WHITE FLORAL WOODY
Tuberose, white flowers, moss, incense and vanilla.

Fille en Aiguilles – Serge Lutens
ORIENTAL WOODY AROMATIC
Pine needle, basil, plum, pepper, elemi, cedarwood, patchouli, incense, fir balsam, ciste labdanum and myrrh.

Woody Timeless Glamour:

Hypnose Senses – Lancome
ORIENTAL FLORAL CHYPRE
The new fragrance is described as “carnal and disconcerting”, designed for the younger audience than is typical for the brand. It features a chypre base, redefined with floral inflexions.
Osmanthus, rose, patchouli, cistus labdanum, benzoin, tonka bean, honey, pink pepper, vanilla, bergamot, peach, apple, sandalwood, musk, soft amber and mandarin.

Idylle – Guerlain
CHYPRE FLORAL FRUITY
Green, peach, pear, pineapple, muguet, rose, pink peppercorn, patchouli, moss, musk, dry amber and vanilla.

Idole – Armani
FLORAL FRUITY WOODY
Orange, pineapple, kiwi, mango, muguet, violet, frangipani, patchouli, musk, dry amber and maltol.

Si Lolita – Lolita Lempicka
FLORAL WOODY SPICY
Bergamot, lime, plum, rose, pink peppercorn, clove, cinnamon, patchouli, musk, vanilla and maltol.

Men's Fragrances

Universal Freshness:

Zegna Colonia - Ermenegildo Zegna
WOODY AROMATIC CITRUS
This is a personal vision of ‘la Dolce Vita’, a parenthesis of peaceful happiness bathed in the warm embrace of the Italian sun.
Sicilian bergamot, neroli, cardamom, basil, lavender, iris, petitgrain, transparent florals, galbanum, rose, moss, musk, benzoin, dry amber, coumarin and cedar.

L’amoreux – D&G Anthology
CITRUS FLORAL WOODY
Grapefruit, lime, mint, green apple, orange flower, transparent florals, cinnamon, moss and dry amber.

CK Free – Calvin Klein
WOODY AROMATIC CITRUS
Lemon, Dihydromyrcenol, lavender, nutmeg, black pepper, cedarwood, moss, suede, dry amber and coumarin.

Le Bataleur – D&G Anthology
WOODY CITRUS SPICY
Grapefruit, lemon, tea, Dihydromyrcenol, calone, ginger, coriander, cumin, moss, cedarwood, vetiver and dry amber.

Masculine Floralcy:

Usher VIP - Usher
FOUGERE CHYPRE FLORAL
This is another of Usher’s “tools of engagement”. The man that wears this fragrance, hopefully, will go out in the world empowered by what he is wearing.
Tangerine, bergamot, kumquat, petitgrain, basil, nutmeg, lavender, violet leaf, lotus flower, saffron, patchouli, cedarwood, vetiver, oakmoss, dry amber, coumarin, leather and suede.

Paul Smith Man – Paul Smith
WOODY AMBER FLORAL
Petitgrain, lavender, basil, iris, transparent florals, pepper, ambrette, moss, leather, dry amber, vanilla and coumarin.

Vintage Fougere:

L'Essence de Cerruti - Cerruti
FOUGERE LEATHER AMBER
This is a new modern musky leather scent for men and caters to a sophisticated, elegant taste.
Bergamot, white pepper, rosemary, mint, saffron, lavender, sensual woody notes, leather, velvety musk, amber and cedar.

Neo Oriental:

Fourreau Noir - Serge Lutens
ORIENTAL AROMATIC POWDERY
With all the virtue of vice, this tight black dress had such a fluid shape that I could revel in its language… is a dark, silky scent.
Tonka bean, lavender, musky, almond, pepper, saffron, soft amber, myrrh and slightly smoky accents.

La Nuit de L’homme – Yves Saint Laurent
WOODY AROMATIC FRUITY
Basil, rosemary, apple, cardamom, cinnamon and clove.

Strictly Private – Baldessarini
ORIENTAL WOODY SPICY
Bergamot, juniper berry, pink pepper, nutmeg, dihydromyrcenol, rose absolute, carnation, patchouli, amber, vanilla, tonka, maltol and cedarwood.

Deep Woods:

CH Men - Carolina Herrera
WOODY AROMATIC AMBER
CH Men is the masculine counterpart to Carolina Herrera CH Women from 2007. CH Men was inspired by the notion of travel, and based on five concepts: adventure, savoir faire, passion, eccentricity and elegance.
Mandarin, bergamot, grapefruit peel, sage, Dihydromyrcenol, lavender, artemesia, marine, saffron, nutmeg, jasmine, violet, sandalwood, cedarwood, ambergris, dry amber, vanilla, moss, burnt sugar, coumarin and leather.

Fahrenheit Absolute – Dior
WOODY AMBER SPICY
Cypress, juniper berry, violet leaves, apple, violet, cumin, guaiacwood, cedarwood, leather, dry amber, coumarin and lactones.

Thanks to Hugh and Yvonne for an exhaustive and very interesting overview of this year's launches.

Report by Tim Gage

This report is the writer's interpretation of the event. It is not intended as a verbatim account and should not be read as such.

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