World Perfumery Congress 2001, Cannes/Grasse, France

Friday 1st June
 
Cannes
Many of today’s presentations were about forecasting the future!

THE IMPORTANCE OF EPHEMERAL PERFUMES: IS IT PERFUMERY’S FUTURE?
Sophie Rouet, S.R.C. Conseil / Escada Beaute

After a short while I concluded that ephemeral must mean "seasonal", because while many of the other talks had lamented the fact of so many fragrance launches each year, and so few go on to become classics and therefore still be in production even two years later, Sophie described how successful their concept of a new fragrance for each season has been. When the older ones are no longer available, there is this "not enough for everyone" syndrome or "limited edition" concept. She said that consumers always want to move onto something new - they are loyal but then they are not - and ephemeral perfumes cater to this need perfectly.

THE ROLE OF FRAGRANCES IN BATH AND BODY PRODUCTS
Patrick Gournay, Chief Executive Officer, The Body Shop International

Patrick gave a short presentation with slides of some of Body Shop’s new product ranges, including a range inspired by the principles of Ayurveda, "the wisdom of life".

DRIVING FRAGRANCE INNOVATION IN A RAPIDLY CHANGING GLOBE
Stephen Hicks, Director R&D - Global Flavours and Fragrances, Procter & Gamble

Stephen’s amusing and informative talk was based around several key points: "There is no such thing as the global consumer, industry just wants to make her that way!"

TOUCHING THE NEW CONSUMER
Maria Corbiscello, Senior Vice President, Chief Development Officer, Intimate Beauty Corporation / Victoria’s Secret Beauty

This talk was utterly riveting! Three or four jaunty pop records played in the background while Maria delivered a flawless talk over them, along to a video of sexy, shapely models, modelling the Victoria’s Secret range. But what Maria had to say was all about the modern woman, who she is and what she desires in her fragrances, toiletries, cosmetics and other products. "The modern woman is money-rich, but time-poor".

THE PERFUMERY WORLD SCENE AND ITS CHANGES
Eroll Stafford, President, Givaudan Fragrances Worldwide

Eroll admitted that the last talk was going to be "a hard act to follow"! But he presented an interesting talk, well illustrated with slides. He delved a little into history, before another few forecasts for the future. He made the point that there are global brands but not necessarily global products. They are often modified for local preferences and tastes. But not necessarily fine fragrance. The valuable time we have gained (as perfumers) by using computers and G.C. equipment has vanished with more and more samples being requested, and marketing pressures. What is the best way to motivate a perfumer? To sell one of their creations! You could envisage a perfumer sitting somewhere on a remote beach, being inspired, creating a formula on their laptop! The perfumer should go wherever they need to for inspiration - be it a museum, an art gallery, the perfume stores, on a nature walk, or to some gardens.

FUTURE TRENDS IN THE GLOBAL WORLD OF FRAGRANCES
Jeanine Recckio, Beauty Futurologist, President Mirror Mirror Imagination Group

The final talk of the day and of the Congress was by Jeanine, a "beauty futurologist". Again, Jeanine’s talk was accompanied by video and slides, and was highly entertaining!

The main messages from the Congress are as follows:

Be more creative. Dare to dream. Take the time to be inspired, and go to places to find inspiration.
When you are introduced to a new material - use it! Try it in a formula and see what effect it has.
Although the legislation is here to stay - the industry will find a way through it - and will come out stronger as a result - we should not be disheartened, for we are a part of a wonderful industry.

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